Explore the world of Mac. Check out the MacBook Pro, iMac Pro, MacBook, iMac, and more. Visit the Apple site to learn, buy, and get support.

Jperrox, Can you please post more details about the Hall sensors you used? Fantastic idea! Where to buy, specs, etc? The original pot is indeed a 100K 50 degree pot. Carefully looking at this however, in my case: If I go into the Windows calibration screen, I can see that with the handle centered, the centerpoint read onscreen is far to the left!

The RANGE of motion I get from the pot looks good, it's just not centered. My pot measures 93K across the outer terminals. When centered, wiper to one of the end terminals reads about 44K. Download Hospitality Management Strategy And Operations 2nd Edition Free.

This tells me it is a linear pot. In fact, the CTS company confirmed the pot specs for me. I am not so sure my pot has a problem with the traces. I think that I need to bump the entire resistance range up on one side.

I think I may get some 100 ohm and 1K resistors and tie them on to one of the legs to see if I can shift up the overall value of the pot. The other possibility that I can see is that the 'stud' attached to the side of the pot is not physically centering the pot perfectly, will experiment with that tonight. But the hall sensor is ideal!! Hello Riggler300, Jperrox has used Honeywell SS496A HE sensors and I am using Allegro A1301EUA-T, but there's something else you need to check before going for them. Logitech have updated the PCB a lot since the release of the stick. I have the first revision and I am still having trouble implementing the HE sensors.

Maybe it is even impossible (or at least very complex) to do it. Jperrox's PCB has a 4-pin pot connector, and mine has a 3-pin.

That's a simple thing to look for when checking. The newer PCB uses a different microcontroller which has ADC integrated and it's a piece of cake to connect the sensors, because the chip can read the voltage output directly from the sensors. The old PCB, though, is using a cheap method of A-D converting and that's what I got stuck with. I cannot find a good setup that will allow me to use the full resolution of movement. Still trying to figure out a way, but I seriously doubt it's possible after I wasted many hours to test with different resistors.

If you are lucky, you may have a stick with the newer PCB and the conversion to HE sensors will be easy. You can see the old version in adriatic's picture in the 1st post. My project is kinda frozen at the moment.

Not only because I hit that dead end with the sensors, but because I had four laptops to repair this month and a lot of other work, so the stick had to be put on hold. I will turn back to it once I'm free. I don't think I will get the full resolution though.

Perhaps I will just use the best setting and calibrate it properly. BU0836 is not a very good option for me, because of the shipping costs. I'd rather get a 'broken' Extreme 3D Pro stick with a working PCB that has the latest microcontroller.

That damn prehistoric method of ADC that my stick uses will require a lot of time, knowledge and calculations if I want to make some progress. I'll give it one more try, I guess.

After month and half of using Logitech Extreme 3D Pro; x&y axis started to be not stabile, or impossible to make full circle, z axis also. Putting some oil or making some pressure on potentiometers help just for a moment. Before buying another joystick I decided to give Logitech last chance, I opened potentiometers, and now it works at 95% quality like when it woos new. I don't advise this to people without cool nerves, but with basic mechanic knowledge is possible to do it. So-what have to be done.?? Unplug, open stick, than base.

Cut 4 top's of potentiometers pins, (I used scalpel-this is hardest part);to be able to open potentiometer, it is on 'inside side of them', round cap. Open potentiometer's box (I removed all oil,now is dry and it works, I don't know which oil should I put? Fine mechanic oil?) 4. Rise metal part. (This solve the problem!!!-better contact.

Last picture shows how much I raised them.) 5. Put joystick together if you can, plug in and tell me did it helped. I open all three potentiometers, they all work fine now. (With power axis I have no problem, so I didn't touch it.) I hope this will help somebody, I hope also not to make somebody angry for posting pictures of this product open, but if it woos working fine-I will never open it. It really depressed me, because it woos so nice first month, but problems came quickly, on this forum I have found lot of people with same problem.this is for them. Hi ppl just to say, this worked for me. My sensors were full of dirty grease which reduced theirs sensitivity.

So i followed those steps and voila: the joystick is calibrated perfectly without problems! Drivers dosnt work. Dont throw Logitech into the trash dont open it for repair just fallow my instructions and Use your logic. Enter flight smulator click settings-controls-control axes tab click on rudder axis and then click delete joystick assignment. Now your joystick dont have rudder (twist) feature. It means you cant make rudder while you are twisting joystick. You can use numpad 0 for rudder left and numpad enter to rudder right.

Especially in Ils flights you dont have yo use rudder it is necessary only when you are taxiing (if you choose fair weather rudder will not necessary during landing) and making rudder from your keyboard will save your money you dont have to buy a new one. Drivers dosnt work. Dont throw Logitech into the trash dont open it for repair just fallow my instructions and Use your logic. Enter flight smulator click settings-controls-control axes tab click on rudder axis and then click delete joystick assignment. Download Lagu Justin Bieber Beauty And A Beat Acoustic Version on this page. Now your joystick dont have rudder (twist) feature. It means you cant make rudder while you are twisting joystick. You can use numpad 0 for rudder left and numpad enter to rudder right.

Especially in Ils flights you dont have yo use rudder it is necessary only when you are taxiing (if you choose fair weather rudder will not necessary during landing) and making rudder from your keyboard will save your money you dont have to buy a new one That's fine for basic flying in MS Flight Simulator and other civil aviation simulations, but it's really not adequate for combat simulations or advanced flight techniques such as aerobatics. In those cases you really need proper proportional rudder control.

Prices, specifications, availability and terms of offers may change without notice. Price protection, price matching or price guarantees do not apply to Intra-day, Daily Deals or limited-time promotions. Quantity limits may apply to orders, including orders for discounted and promotional items. Despite our best efforts, a small number of items may contain pricing, typography, or photography errors. Correct prices and promotions are validated at the time your order is placed. These terms apply only to products sold by HP.com; reseller offers may vary.

Items sold by HP.com are not for immediate resale. Orders that do not comply with HP.com terms, conditions, and limitations may be cancelled. Contract and volume customers not eligible. HP’s MSRP is subject to discount. HP’s MSRP price is shown as either a stand-alone price or as a strike-through price with a discounted or promotional price also listed.

Discounted or promotional pricing is indicated by the presence of an additional higher MSRP strike-through price. Toner cartridges: A SpencerLab 2013 study commissioned by HP compared Original HP Mono LaserJet toner cartridges with ten brands of non-HP cartridges sold in North America for the HP LaserJet P2035 and P1102 printers, HP 05A and 85A cartridges. For details, see www.spencerlab.com/reports/HP-Reliability-NA-2013.pdf.